Decoding the dilapidated temple at Abhaneri – Harshad Mata Temple

Location: Abhaneri Village, Near Bandikui, District Dausa, Rajasthan

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We had travelled on the Agra Jaipur Highway i.e. NH21 (or Bikaner Agra NH21) many a times and had always been mesmerised by the beauty of the route. But surprisingly we had never thought of taking short diversions or stopping to check out.

We were coming back from Jaipur, slightly disheartened on missing out on checking out the Panna Meena ka Kund (stepwells) at Amer. We had left early and were sure that we had ample time to reach back our destination. So we decided to check out at least one of the diversions we could take from the highway – the choice was between – Abhaneri and Bhangarh. The vote went to Abhaneri for various reasons – we had to just travel around 35 Kms (around 22 miles) from the main highway (from Dausa), Abhaneri has the oldest stepwell in Rajasthan (we had read about it) and it shouldn’t take us more than an hour to check out the entire place.

It’s not difficult to reach Abhaneri. Drive on the NH21, cross Dausa and move onwards to Sikandara, Just after the Indian Oil pump turn left (if coming from Jaipur) on the Sikandara-Toda Bheem Road, (the same road which goes to Bandikui and Alwar). There are clear signs before turning left about Abhaneri, one cannot miss them. The road is a partial toll road. Drive on, cross the BaanGanga River at PeechuPara Kalan, drive further, turn right at Naveen Kirana Store Guler on to Abhaneri road. The Abhaneri road is a beautiful road (not very wide) with farms on both the sides. Cross the HP Petrol pump and you would have reached your destination. 

Take a right turn when you see this

 The first thing we noticed on the right was a dilapidated temple like structure out of stone. We parked our vehicle (yes there is an official paid parking spot on the left currently managed by the Abhaneri Village Panchayat). We crossed the road and reached the enclosed area which we had noticed. It was a gated area with a small board by the Archaeological Survey of India informing that this was the Harshad Mata Temple. This temple is an ASI protected monument. 

The temple is dated back to 8-9^th Century and was constructed by King Chand or Chandra of Nikumbha dynasty. It is said that it was the king who had established Abhaneri (earlier known as Abha Nagri – the city of brightness).

The temple is was extensively damaged by Mahmud Ghazni. What was left was sanctum shorn of its superstructure which stands on two stepped terraces.

This east facing temple (an example of Mahmeru style) was built on a raised platform. The sanctum is pancharatha on plan (a hindu temple could be triratha, panchratha, saptaratha or navratha in plan) with pillared mandapa (a mandapa is the entrance to the temple, it may be a portico or colonnaded (series of columns placed at regular intervals) hall that incorporates space for large number of worshippers).  The temple has a sculpted niche on each buttress of the wall. The sanctum is enclosed by an ambulatory.

The cardinal niches show Vishnu (Vasudeva), Balrama (Sanakarshana) and Pradyumna on the south, north and west, indicating that the original temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Presently it enshrines an image of a Devi locally called Harshat Mata (Goddess of happiness).

This temple was not originally a temple of goddess. The image which is in the temple currently does in no way belong to the sculpture styles of the 10^th -12^th century. You would find similar marble images across many temples in North (some temples are as recent as a year or two old). Many locals (self-styled guides) would tell you cooked up stories about Harshad Mata (from centuries ago), not at all close to the historical facts. You are free to click photographs (please don’t get fooled by locals if they tell you that you are not allowed to click photographs). Some people will tell you that the temple was restored by the King of Jaipur in 18^th Century – another story and not a fact. Whatever restoration and maintenance is being done, is being done by Archaeological Survey of India (Jaipur Circle).

For picture gallery click here 

There was a priest in the temple when we went there and also a local village woman. Thankfully neither the priest nor the local pushed us to do anything, and didn’t stop us from clicking pictures. We didn’t though enter the main area (Girbhgriha) with shoes (probably our religious beliefs).

The temple is a hidden gem. The main attraction are its beautiful sculptures which can be found carved in niches around the main plinth, walls and pillars and even on the broken stones lying around.

The sculptures reflect the secular society of the time. The themes of the sculptures are both religious and secular; include dance, music, garden-sports and love depicted with rich luxuriousness. Some of the sculptures on the theme of love are erotic in nature.

This temple is definitely worth a visit for the beautiful sculptures which are a reflection on the society that was, our beautiful heritage.

For pictures click here

We enjoyed the visit as the sculptures not only showed us the richness of our heritage, they showed us a different and beautiful perspective of the religion many of us have failed to understand.

Average visit time –10 minutes – 25 minutes